Coastal Gems in the Gower Peninsula and Beyond

Still exhilarated by our day in Ystradgynlais, Noel and I packed up the van and traveled to the Gower Peninsula, an area of about 70 square miles that extends westward from Swansea to the Bristol Channel.  The Gower draws thousands of visitors year round for its stunning coastline and beaches.  In fact, it was the first area in the UK to be named an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty in 1956.

Noel dropped me off at the Wales Coast Path and I took a refreshing hike along the sea grass. Well, I confess it resembled more of a stroll whenever something photogenic captured my attention -- and, honestly, that was nearly every time I moved my gaze.  What a shame I didn't have time to tackle the whole 870 miles of the path (Ha!)  Such gorgeous seascapes and untouched beauty offer lots of incentive for fallen-away hikers like me to lace up our boots and get the blood pumping again.

It was hard to choose a direction to look.  One view surpassed the last.  It might have been just a teeny bit more stunning without the rain, but we were in Wales, after all, and we'd already had 5 days of nice weather.  Actually, along the coast, the rain added to the wild appeal for me.  The rain, the wind, the waves breaking on the rocks below, and the sound of the ocean and sea birds...I loved it all.

I couldn't get enough of the ocean.  Yes, I've obviously video-ed the same view repeatedly, but you don't mind, do you?  It's very soothing.

I met up with Noel at Langland Bay, ready for a new adventure.

Our next stop:  Worm's Head, where you can spot the beast in the waters of Rhossili Bay.  Worm comes from the old English word "wyrm," or sea serpent.  This serpent is actually a tidal island you can hike to via a causeway at low tide -- provided you watch the clock and get back before it's too late.  The poet Dylan Thomas was forced to spend the night on the island after dozing past the return window.  

The body and head of the "worm" in the distance.

As we departed the van, Noel started explaining the history and geography of the area with his expert flair, but I was much more fascinated with the other creatures on the bay -- feral horses!  They seemed very accustomed to people, and came right up the fence to say hello.  

He needs a little trim!

This little one even took a nap under the watchful eyes of the elders.

This pretty fella had some sticky fern stuck to his mane, and it was getting in his eye.  After Noel managed to untangle it, I swore the horse said, "thank you."

The horses had plenty of sheep for company.

Ooh! This is gonna' be good for painting!

No crossing right now.  The tide is in, and the causeway inaccessible. 

I waved goodbye to my little friends, and Noel and I jumped back in the van (me, as usual, heading for the wrong side of the vehicle.)

But wait!  There's more!  We had two more stops to go.  The first was Arthur's Stone, near Reynoldston, Swansea, on a hill called Cefyn (KE-vun) Bryn.  Take a look at the photo and see if you can guess what it is.

Yes!  It's a Neolithic tomb.  Where have we seen these before?  This one is a lot messier stone-wise than the others we encountered, and there are legends galore that attempt to account for it.  Here are two:

1.  Considering it's called "Arthur's Stone," this one gets top billing.  It's said that King Arthur was walking across the Loughor Estuary to the north and got a pebble in his boot.  He took it out and threw it across the water, and by the time it landed, it became this enormous boulder.

2.  Here's one involving St. David, Wales' patron saint.  St. David wanted to show the locals that Christianity is more powerful than paganism, so he stood on top of a boulder and struck it with his staff, whereupon it broke into this debris field of stones.

In another legend, it's said if young maidens visit Arthur's Stone on the full moon and crawl around it three times on their hands and knees, the man of their dreams will walk toward them in the moonlight.  Noel said the maidens were supposed to bring whole grain cookies, but I forget how they figured in.  I think Noel added the whole grain part because he eats vegan.

A visit to Laugharne (LARN) ended the day's itinerary.  Laugharne lies on an estuary of the river Taf.  The ruins of medieval Laugharne Castle dominate the landscape.

Did I say there are 427 castles in Wales?  Not true.  I just discovered there are more than 600.  I don't know how Noel keeps all this info in his brain, but I'm obviously castle-muddled on this video!

Laugharne is probably best known for its most famous resident, the poet Dylan Thomas.  Thomas and his wife, Caitlin, lived here on and off from their marriage in 1938 to his death in 1953.  It's thought to be Thomas' inspiration for the setting of his "play for voices," Under Milk Wood.  

A wealthy benefactor, Mrs. Margaret Taylor, bought the boat house in Laugharne and allowed the couple to live there rent-free.  The grounds also included a "writing shed," where Thomas worked most days.  The poet was known to enjoy a few too many pints at Brown's Hotel, so it's said Caitlin locked him inside the shed during the day, then freed him in the late afternoon and they both walked down the hill to Brown's together.

The Boathouse

Dylan Thomas' Writing Shed

Unfortunately, the exhibits were closed on Tuesday, so we just peeked in the window.  It was impossible to get a good photo, so here's one in the public domain that somebody else took.  The furnishing are displayed just as they were when Thomas did his writing.

Dylan Thomas and his wife, Caitlin, are buried together in the cemetery at nearby St. Martin's church.  Thomas was only 39 when he died after a night of heavy drinking while visiting New York.  It's said his last words were, "I've had 18 straight whiskies.  I think that's the record."  So sad.  I wonder if his life is evidence that a 2015 Cambridge University study rings true.  Researchers found the Welsh people are the shiest and least emotionally stable people in the United Kingdom.  Hmmm.

By now it was late afternoon, so we made a b-line to our destination for the day, the lovely little seaside town of Tenby.  Noel dropped me at my hotel and he went on to his.

Guess what Tenby has....

A CASTLE, of course!  

I walked along the ramparts to the downtown area, where I had what the Brits call "pub food."  I decided that means regular meals, but you go up to the bar to order them and pay right away.  Suits me!  I also learned from Caryl in Ystradgynlais that you are not expected to tip.  Apparently they add a service charge into the price.  I liked not having to worry about it.  I also liked not being asked to tip for everything from coffee to candy bars as is becoming more common in the USA.

I saw this sign and had to snap a photo for my brother, Jim.  He and his wife, Susan, are very active in the Rotary in New Jersey.

By the time I got back to my hotel, I was really tired and ready for bed.  It stays light in the British Isles until 10 p.m. or more during the summer, so it seems pretty odd to crawl under the covers, but it didn't stop me.  We had another big day planned for the next day.  

Stay tuned!